Mika Touches Down

Alas, on 04/06 Mika friend comes to visit us! She’s like a supply ship who came to the desert, carrying with her incense, vitamin supplements, mail, Eurail pass and organic tobacco. It’s a bonus that she’s a whirlwind of good energy, unrestrained spontaneity and fun at maximum amplitude. We got well acquainted with all the bocadillo places in Madrid, ate fried chorizos, went to window shop on Serrano on a Sunday, dined and wined (cider’ed) at Casa Mingo, relaxed in Parque Retiro and visited El Prado on a two-hour power guided-tour. We even went clubbing at the legendary “The Room” while the legendary DJ Angel spun.

Mika got thrown into the mix of Armando’s family and friends as soon as she stepped off the plane, as we initiated her into the whole caña and tapas culture. Things must have gotten pretty surreal for her after a few rounds of beer + tinto de verano + morro + orejas in the company of Pedro, Maria, Pepe, Silvia, Ivan and of course Armando and I. When it came time to buy cigarettes she happily dodged billiards in a random Irish bar as she made a bee line for the tobacco vending machine. The fun with food and Madrileño friends continued for the next five days.

The next day, Armando led a power tour through Madrid. We ate at the Ham Museum and went to lunch at Casa Mingo where Armando’s best friend Ivan worked. This restaurant’s real old, and they’ve been serving the same food and cider since 1888. The highlight of the day would have to be Parque Retiro, where the a statue honoring Lucifer the Fallen Angel stands. We relaxed by the lake inside the park, and I successfully exploded a cloud in the first attempt I ever made at this well-known thought-intention experiment.

We took a day trip to Cuenca on 04/08 to get our feet wet. There, we visited the Cuenca cathedral and met a gypsy woman with two heads. Yes, two heads. It was like meeting the hunchback of Notre Dame. We ate baby pigs, and went to the fantastic modern art museum housed in the legendary hanging houses, Casa Colgadas. As we were not able to make it to the strange rock formations Ciudad Encantada due to lack of of a car, we hiked a ways by ourselves on a private winding mountain road (where the rock formation were pretty weird but not that weird) until we heard the barking of a guard dog in close proximity.

Next day was a shopping excursion in Madrid. After a day of shopping, came the memorable Spanish clubbing experience. Apparently no clubs even open for business until 2am. Standard practice is to warm up with a few rounds of drinks at surrounding bars until the clubs open. Armando was thrilled with the music, as it was spun by the very DJ (DJ Angel) who inspired him to spin house music way back when. As we existed the club at 6am, I experienced the all-purpose Chinese street vendor. He sells everything you’ll ever need after a night of dancing and sweating: water, beer, and gum. And, if you’re hungry, he’s even got a plate of hot steaming chow-mien! All these supply housed in the seemingly magical and never-ending milk crate which also acts as a stool he sits on when business is slow. Amazing.

Mika and I planned our Italian trip and routed our Eurail passes on the weekend while Armando mused over how crazy our itinerary was becoming: Two girls, one ticket, ten cities in twelve days. By the time we finished our planning Armando was thoroughly pleased with the fact that he’s not part of this trip. On the other hand, I was boiling with anticipation…. I love being on the road! I’m seriously the happiest when the only downtime is spent on a moving vehicle going from one place to another! The last time I did this was an Eastern Europe journey in 2001, and here I am nine years later with Mika doing it in Spain and Italy. Ah, the anticipation. Needless to say we packed up a bunch of food for our train ride to Barcelona, as we enjoy eating while sitting in confined spaces. Whenever I have the luxury of this combination of good food, good book, good company and a small sitting compartment that’s moving at high speed, I am reminded of what Felice remarked on a road trip we took in Taiwan. Why is it that the joy of having these seemingly mundane elements gets amplified when they are enjoyed in a confined space, and even more so when this space is moving at high speed?

My First 3 Days in Spain

Got to Spain three days ago, I’m already 100% adjusted of jet lag as of this morning. Might have something to do with the never ending supply of beer and wine and food, haven’t stopped since I got off the plane, but I think it’s really because of the sound healing sessions I’ve been giving. Armando’s family is really intense but super nice. His mom Maria keeps kissing me and feeding me ham. His dad Pedro likes to teach me Spanish vocabulary centering around food items, and he reminds me of my grandpa for some odd reason. Armando’s uncle Jose drove Maria and Armando to the airport to pick me up. As one of my carry on luggage (the most valuable one with my cyma and a load of cash) mistakenly got on a flight from London to Madrid that departed two hours later than when I departed, everyone waited with me at the airport until I found my luggage.

The first breakfast I had here was porras and churros with a thick hot chocolate. Churros and porras are both crunchy fried dough, one is a fat long stick and the latter a skinny stick bent into a half figure eight, tear-drop shaped if you will. I probably ate 2 pounds of jamon by myself in the first 48 hours of arriving here. The best ham is made with a black pig that has a strict diet of only acorn nuts, and ham made from these guys is called pata negra. It is just the most delicious thing in the whole entire world. You won’t stop eating it when I bring you some.

Maria cooked up a feast yesterday: Fidegua (imagine paella with pasta instead of rice), bacalau a-pil-pil (salted black cod cooked with garlic and olive oil), mejillones (mussels with peppers, olives and onions), pulpo (the most tender octopus with paprika),  lacon (boiled serrano ham), and cold cuts (manchego cheese, salchichon, lomo and jamon). For some odd reason the custom is to stop by a bar where you order a mini glass of beer and they give you small plates for free. So, prior to Maria’s feast we went and had oreja (pig ears), morro (cow’s face), and tortilla espagnola.

For Armand and I who have been mostly vegetarians for the last two years, all this delicious food started to feel like poison to our bodies. So, we happily decided to be salad-chomping strict herbivores for today and I hope tomorrow as well.

I don’t mean to sound like a pig by describing to you my trip in terms of food, but that is really what this country is centered around, followed closely by family and friends. I guess I’m here to work on my relationships with other people.

That’s all for now, we don’t have internet set up at the house yet, so I must keep this short. Tomorrow we will go to the Prado Museum in Madrid, can’t wait to see Hieronymus Bosch!!

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